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Whenever we travel or are going to be away from home for a longer period of time, I pack charging cords and charging cubes. There are a surprisingly large number of cords that go with us for all of our devices. And it drives me nuts to have all of them twisted around and jumbled up.
These No Sew Cord Keepers are super easy to make in five minutes or less, and I have three free sizes on a printable template for you so you can make whichever sizes works best for you. You can use them for large, over the ear headphones too!
And, if you make the largest jumbo Cord Keeper, it works great to hold cords to items like an iron, so the cords are up and out of the way and doesn't get tangled.
Keep reading and I'll tell you how to get the most out of those free pattern templates, what fabrics work well for cord keepers, and I have a tip for making them look just a little bit more finished and polished.
Let's jump right in!
Watch the video tutorial:
Supplies:
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Vinyl fabric – you can get this in a lot of stores and online. Here are a few stores I’ve used - My Little Shindig and Wonderground Fabrics
Fabric marking pen or pencil, or extra-fine tip Sharpie
OR
Optional:
Let's Get Started Making No Sew Cord Keepers:
Print out the free templates and then cut them out. Make sure to print at the “actual” size instead of “Fit to printable size.” You can measure the 1-inch x 1-inch square at the bottom of the printable to make sure printed at the correct size.
If you want to use the templates multiple times or make them sturdier, transfer the pattern to a Dollar Tree cutting board or Quilters Plastic Templates and cut them out. Both of the options are made of thin plastic so your patterns will be more like an acrylic template. This makes them easier to trace around too since the plastic is thicker than printer paper.
Don't forget to punch holes where they are indicated on the pattern template. That way you can use a fabric marking pen to make a dot on that spot right on the fabric when you are tracing the template.
Let's talk about fabric. I have tried this pattern with thin vinyl, thick marine vinyl, clear vinyl, and even jelly vinyl and it works with all of them. I like the mid to heavier weight vinyl with a felt or flannel-feeling back to it, but that's just my personal preference. My least favorite option is clear vinyl because it's a bit slippery for holding the cords and it feels as if they might slide right out.
No matter what kind you decide to use, pretty colors or unique patterns will make them stand out.
You will need the all the pieces for two sides of a snap - two caps (flat on one side with a pointy piece in the middle), one male piece (this looks like an outie belly button), and one female piece (this looks like an innie belly button).
Trace the template onto the back of your vinyl fabric using a fabric marking pen, pencil, or marker. I will admit to using Sharpie when the color is dark enough that I can’t see the fabric marking tools. Don’t forget to mark the two spots for the snaps.
Now it’s time to cut out your vinyl using fabric scissors. If you used a Sharpie, make sure to cut just inside the lines so that you cut off the marks themselves.
Next, use your awl to punch a hole through the two spots you marked for the snaps.
There are two ways to attach your snaps – one is for the snaps to extend a bit to the side and snap together with the wrong sides of the fabric facing one another.
This version is not as tight on the inside where the cord will go, but if you have a larger cord that would be a good thing. If you choose this option for attaching the snaps, it's extra fun to use two engraved caps if you have them because you will see both on the finished project.
The second way is for the top portion of the snap to wrap around to the right side of the fabric and attach to the second portion of the snap. It's a bit tighter once closed, and you will only see one cap when it's in use. It's all a matter of personal preference which option you choose.
Decide which way you want to your snaps to attach together before the next steps.
If you want the two ends to extend a bit out the side and snap together with the wrong sides of the fabric together:
Let's start with the male side and get the KAM Snap Table Press ready.
Place the adapter base into the press.
Screw the female snap die into the press. This is the one that resembles an innie belly button - the reverse of the actual snap piece itself.
From the front side of the fabric, insert the pointy cap piece into the hole you made with the awl.
Now on the back of the fabric place the male (outie belly button looking one) onto the part of the cap that is sticking out.
Carefully place it all into the press with the cap down so it sits flat on the adapter base.
Press down hard on the press handle. I put my weight into it and lean on the handle.
Carefully remove the cord keeper from the press.
Now it's time for the female side of the snap.
Unscrew the female die from the press and screw in the male die, which looks like an outie belly button (the reverse of the piece of the snap itself).
Again, from the front side of the fabric, insert the pointy cap piece into the hole you made with the awl.
Now on the back of the fabric place the female (innie belly button looking one) onto the part of the cap that is sticking out.
Carefully place it all into the press with the cap down so it sits flat on the adapter base.
Press down hard on the press handle. I put my weight into it and lean on the handle.
Carefully remove the cord keeper from the press.
Test out your snap to make sure it clicks together, and it's done!
If you want the top portion of the snap to wrap around to the right side of the fabric and attach to the second portion of the snap:
Let's start with the male side and get the KAM Snap Press ready.
Place the adapter base into the press.
Screw the female snap die into the press. This is the one that resembles an innie belly button - the reverse of the actual snap piece itself.
From the front side of the fabric, insert the pointy cap piece into the hole you made with the awl.
Now on the back of the fabric place the male (outie belly button looking one) onto the part of the cap that is sticking out.
Carefully place it all into the press with the cap down so it sits flat on the adapter base.
Press down hard on the press handle. I put my weight into it and lean on the handle.
Carefully remove the cord keeper from the press.
Now it's time for the female side of the snap.
Unscrew the female die from the press and screw in the male die, which looks like an outie belly button (the reverse of the piece of the snap itself).
This is where the instructions differ - from the back side of the fabric, insert the pointy cap piece into the hole you made with the awl.
Now on the front of the fabric place the female (innie belly button looking one) onto the part of the cap that is sticking out.
Carefully place it all into the press with the cap down so it sits flat on the adapter base.
Press down hard on the press handle. I put my weight into it and lean on the handle.
Carefully remove the cord keeper from the press.
Test out your snap to make sure it clicks together, and it's done!
Adding a Final Touch to Your Cord Keeper:
At this point the cord keeper is ready for use. But, if you want to kick it up just a notch, grab a Sharpie that matches or coordinates with your cord keeper fabric and color the cut edges of the vinyl with the side of the Sharpie tip. It looks more like a finished edge this way. Plus, it’s very easy and inexpensive to do.
I hope you have fun making a ton of these for yourself, or hey, make some as gifts because everyone has cords they need to organize, right?
Happy crafting!
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